Play it Sam, Play "As Time Goes By..." - Marrakech 2022
A story of friendship, love, magic, and copious amounts of food and drink
As much as I want to fight the urge to use some clichéd title relating to the film Casablanca, it appears I have little willpower. So welcome to my adventure in Marrakech.
Morocco has long been a country on my bucket list, especially after looking at photos and watching movies set in the truly stunning locale. In recent months, as the world began to go back to what we call “normal,” a unique opportunity to visit the country came up, and I couldn’t refuse. One of my old friends from my days in UWC, Samriddhi, sent me a delightful email inviting me to her wedding, which is taking place in Marrakech, Morocco. With an invitation to see not only one of my dear friends get married but also cross off a bucket list destination, I could hardly pass on that opportunity. The trip also allowed me to plan yet another Skidmore reunion with one of my close friends Sarah, a Marrakech native and, most notably, a survivor of the Skidmore College International Affairs Senior Seminar class. Thus, began months of anticipation, planning, and an open mind as I explored yet another new country.
With travel bouncing back more rapidly than initially anticipated, booking the flights to Morocco proved to be a gamble in terms of pricing as it was bouncing all over the place. Around late August, I found a deal on Turkish Airlines that was too good to pass up. I soon bit the proverbial bullet and purchased my plane ticket, and after some planning with fellow UWCers Joyce, Sharlyn, and Joyce’s boyfriend, Yuxin. I was soon off to Marrakech for what turned out to be a bit of a fever trip.
Getting to Marrakech involved two flights on Turkish Airlines via Istanbul. I was looking forward to this as it would be my first time flying this airline. However, it would also be my first time flying the Boeing 737 MAX which did put me a bit on edge. The MAX has a certain notoriety about it regarding safety issues and is an example of when aerospace companies listen to stockholders rather than the engineers.
For the most part, my two flights were uneventful (except for some slightly rowdy travelers on the second flight who nearly exhausted the wine supply), and Turkish Airlines did not disappoint. My main qualm was less with the airline and more with the gargantuan scale of the new Istanbul Airport. I joked with Nalin that the gate from the first flight to transit security to the transit area was akin to walking from Ankara to Istanbul. After a relatively calm yet lengthy layover in Istanbul and a mildly stress-free flight, I soon landed in Marrakech, excited to see not only my UWC friends but my dear friend Sarah. Like many previous adventures, despite the appalling lack of sleep, I was keen to hit the ground running with my exploration.
Over the course of three days, it was a series of intensive sightseeing along with essential shopping for spices and the all-important argan oil for my family.
Marrakech highlights:
In a break from my usual trip reports, the top highlight was easily some of the sites rather than the food. The sites in question are dotted in and around the Medina. I will be the first to admit that the Medina is the most visited part of the city. Still, amidst the mad motorbikes running in and around the Medina, there are moments of serenity in the form of specific sites that are a must-visit. Some must-visit sites within the Medina are the Jardin Secret (Secret Garden), Ben Youssef Madrassa, Dar el Baccha, the Bahia Palace, and my personal favorite, Badi Palace. Outside of the Medina, I highly recommend the Jardin Majorelle and its accompanying Berber Museum.
These sites are a must-visit, and while I could squeeze all of them in about two days of visiting, I would recommend trying to spread it out as it can get exhausting, particularly after two reasonably lengthy flights halfway around the world. Another suggestion is to visit these sights first thing in the morning as ticket queues, particularly for Bahia palace, can get long. Out of these sites, I found myself drawn to Badi Palace the most.
Badi Palace, a preserved palace ruin, was home to the Sultan Ahmad Al-Mansur of the Saadian Dynasty in the late 1500s/early 1600s. With the preserved ruins of the palace and the underground passageways, I got to live out a bit of an Indiana Jones fantasy, albeit for about 15 minutes. I enjoyed this site simply because I was able to awe the majesty of its size and bask in its relative serenity. This is not to say I enjoyed the other sites less; Jardin Majorelle was tremendously fun to visit as it is simply a beautifully maintained garden and the centerpiece of Yves Saint Laurent’s dark blue house stood out beautifully. YSL’s house is home to the Berber Museum, highlighting the rich traditions of the different North African Berber communities. My only regret is that I was not allowed to take photos because I was in awe of the various jewelry pieces; they are fabulously intricate.
Jardin Secret and Ben Youssef Madrassa were sublime to visit, as I was fortunate not to interact with too much of a crowd when I went to those sights. It allowed me to enjoy the design and architecture of these sights at my own pace. Jardin Secret, like Badi Palace, is a complex dating back to the Saadian Dynasty but was rebuilt in the mid-19th century. The Ben Youssef Madrasa was Morocco’s most prominent Islamic college, dating back to the 1100s. Madrasa is the Arabic word for any form of college or educational institution. This particular one was founded and named after Ali Ibn Yusef, a sultan from the Almoravid era. The Madrasa is an impressive site with numerous courtyards dotted around the complex centering around a sizeable reflective pool in the center. Enough of my words; it’s time I let my photos do some of the hard work for me.
In addition to these sights, a trip report of mine would not be complete without a review of some of the fabulous food and drinks I had on this trip. Having Sarah guiding us around her home city was a treat as she took us to places she usually frequented, so we knew the food would be legit. El Fenn, Barometré, Atay Café, and Mandala society are some restaurants that must visit when going to Marrakech. El Fenn is a hotel right in the Medina with a rooftop restaurant, where Sarah took us on my first night. The restaurant has some great cocktails, which pair well with the Medina rooftop views and some light bites (though it isn’t the most vegetarian-friendly). For the best cocktails, however, I wholeheartedly recommend Barometré, an underground (yes, literally underground) bar home to some spectacular cocktails. Barometré is in the newer part of the city, surrounded by newer malls, restaurants, and office buildings. Sarah is a fan of this venue as the staff is all local and tries their best to utilize as many local ingredients as possible. Another element of the bar that Sarah pointed out is that all the glassware and cocktail vessels are designed and made by local shops. I got a tequila-based cocktail which, while served in a whimsical metal teapot, had an explosion of flavor. However, that may have been partially due to the hilariously spicy chili-infused tequila. Below are some drinks we had that evening, including what I feel is the gold standard for non-alcoholic drinks. I suggest going to Atay Café in the Medina for simple food and equally stunning views like El Fenn. I recommend the vegetarian tagine with local-style bread, paired with a pot of mint tea and spectacular views of the central mosque, the Medina, and the Anti-Atlas Mountains. Mandala Society is a cute little brunch place near the Bahia Palace for a quieter vibe. The cuisine is a typical western style brunch fare with some mildly gentrified Moroccan twists (however, the mint tea and beetroot juice were fabulous).
Now on to the main event, my friend’s wedding.
Wedding highlights:
Samriddhi and Sahil’s wedding is one of the most spectacular events I have ever been to in my life. It was rich, colorful, emotional, and truly magical. I could not imagine a better celebration for these two. Over those few days, I relived the marathon disguised as an Indian wedding can be, but thankfully I made it through with some new and old friends along the way.
A significant part of the wedding was reconnecting with some old school friends whom I had not seen in many years, along with Samriddhi’s family, who was incredibly sweet throughout the week. I was touched that they remembered our entire UWC crew so fondly, and the best part, they absolutely killed it on the dance floor. While reconnecting with old friends, I also took the time to make some new friends from both the bride and groom’s side, and safe to say I now have people I can visit in unique corners of the globe, from places like Grenada to Israel. With the fantastic company also came some superb food and drink as an appropriate pairing. I’ve always known Sam to have exceptional taste in cuisine, so the food definitely did not disappoint. The hotel staff at the Oberoi and the location in the Afgay desert went all out with the food for all events.
The wedding ceremony was beautiful, with the bride and the groom incorporating traditional Hindu rituals with their own touch, like having vows (which, yes, did make everyone, including this sap of an author, tear up profusely). The real highlight was the sangeet in the desert with everyone, in outfits rivalling most fashion runways getting up to dance till the early morning hours.
Upon the last day, I was tired yet grateful that I had been invited to celebrate their love and what I know will be a lifetime of happiness. I left the hotel with Joyce, Yuxin, and a fellow Singaporean, Aina, as we were all taking the same flight back to Singapore via Istanbul. Thankfully the flights heading back to Singapore were not as chaotic as the Istanbul to Marrakech leg I had on the way to the wedding (though there was a moment as we landed in Singapore where one of the overhead bins opened upon a rough and rainy landing).
Reflections:
Though I only explored a small percentage of the country, Morocco certainly left a strong impression on me. For lack of a better word, there is a vibrancy to Marrakech, which I enjoyed tremendously. What made exploring this city special was having Sarah as an invaluable guide. I am unsure what I would’ve done without her guidance and recommendations. Brief shout-out to Sarah’s cat, Paco, who kept me company while jet lag woke me up absurdly early. Morocco is a country I need to visit again, as those three days in Marrakech barely scratched the surface and only whetted my appetite to explore this country further. The wedding celebrations were equally filled with wanderlust as the rest of my trip.
Those few days at the various venues will forever be some of the most magical in my life. I could not think of a more fitting celebration of love for Sam and Sahil. What I enjoyed most throughout those few days was that almost everyone seemed to get along with everyone. There was no drama; people just laughed, cried, ate, drank profusely, and in my case, I did all four. I made some great connections and hope to meet them again one day.
Ultimately, the word I’d use to sum up, this trip would be enriching. Morocco is one fabulous country, and I am already eager to return.